Much has changed in the centuries since English settlers in Virginia enjoyed their first oysters, courtesy of the Algonquin Indians who called this land home and whose young men dove into the waters of the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries to bring up those oysters by hand.

Modern oystering techniques, combined with the effects of pollutants in the waterways of what came to be known as Hampton Roads, depressed oyster stocks to dangerously low levels in the late 20th century. But things have improved recently, oysters seem to be rebounding, and the industry that looked at one time to be on the verge of collapse is beginning to thrive again, albeit on a smaller scale than it once did.

The technology has changed. The oysters have even changed — no more of the dinner plate-sized monsters that were part of colonial lore. And the habitat where they live has changed.

What has not changed, however, is the Tidewater people’s love of the ancient bivalve. Whether fried, baked, roasted or raw, oysters remain one of the area’s favorite delicacies, and they will find their way to many a Thanksgiving table today, along with other traditional foods like turkey, stuffing and cranberries.

That’s great news, and it’s yet another small reason to be thankful today.