Oysters: Steamed and shoveled

Published 10:51 pm Monday, November 21, 2016

A surprisingly warm November afternoon broke a cycle of cooler days the first week of the month, providing perfect weather for the North Suffolk Rotary Club’s annual oyster roast.

Tucked in the corner of a farm in Everets, hundreds of Rotarians, friends and family huddled around rows of makeshift tables.

A smoky, seawater aroma permeated the grounds, and the sound of bluegrass music, courtesy of Fentress Station, completed the rustic setting.

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“It’s an open, beautiful location,” said Steven Sheppard, president of the North Suffolk Rotary Club. “We keep it relatively intimate.”

A little Texas Pete was the perfect condiment for some of the guests at the North Suffolk Rotary Club’s oyster roast. Others brought their own concoctions to dress up the main fare.

A little Texas Pete was the perfect condiment for some of the guests at the North Suffolk Rotary Club’s oyster roast. Others brought their own concoctions to dress up the main fare.

To the left of the tables was a custom-made grill, which was donated by one of the property residents, Doug McConnell, president of local concrete manufacturer Nansemond Pre-Cast Concrete Company.

The grill’s base is made of concrete blocks slightly cracked from age, and half-inch-thick, lightly rusted, convex steel plates provided the base for cooking. Glowing embers from the fire below were evidence that the cooking temperature had reached its prime, well over 1,000 degrees, based on measurements taken at past oyster roasts.

Rotary members and Nansemond River High School volunteers had a precise operation with the oysters.

First, the oysters, provided by North Carolina-based Murray L. Nixon Fishery, were unloaded from a truck and placed onto the grill. Then, two men placed burlap bags that had been soaked in water on top of the oysters.

This was done to prevent the oysters from burning and to preserve the oysters’ moisture. After several minutes, brown liquid bubbled from the oyster heaps, which signaled they were ready to be taken off the grill.

Nothing worth having comes easily, and these oysters were no exception. Gloves are highly recommended when cracking into oysters. Michael Jackson would approve.

Nothing worth having comes easily, and these oysters were no exception. Gloves are highly recommended when cracking into oysters. Michael Jackson would approve.

Andy Brooks, a North Suffolk Rotarian and a seasoned grill volunteer, said the process of smoking the oysters “is a lot of work, but it’s so worth it.”

“The oysters are nice and plump and juicy,” he said.

Next, the oysters were scraped from the grill into wheelbarrows, which were pushed by the students to the hungry guests.

Once consumed, the emptied oyster shells were placed into white plastic barrels and carried to a large truck and dumped onto the truck bed. In the days to follow, the oyster shells would be placed back into the waterways for harvesting.

The 11 students were members of the school’s Future Business Leaders of America club, which has built a relationship with the North Suffolk Rotary club during the last few years.

About three years ago, the students asked the club to sponsor them. The following year, the club asked the students to help with its oyster roasts.

“The kids love doing it,” said Jason Bartholomew, lead advisor for the high school’s FBLA club. “We’re just helping each other.”

“It’s always good to step out and show we have really good young adults who want to help out.”

Maverick Lozano, a student who has volunteered for the last two years, said the event “is a nice community event to come together and donate to the local Rotary Club.”

After a long day of hard work, the students enjoyed servings of the remaining oysters.

Among the sea of 350 people, the roast’s largest showing to date, were many bright smiles, along with lots of greasy, stained hands and laughter.

“I get to revisit friends from previous years,” said Danny Barker, a roast regular. “The [oysters] are clean and a nice size — it doesn’t taste like river bottom.”

“People are ooo-ing and ahhh-ing over the oysters — they’re huge,” Sheppard said.

Cracking open the rugged, dark grey oyster shells revealed a handful of milky-gray, delicate, lima bean-shaped oysters.

Barker was right — the oysters didn’t taste bitter, but rather savory and slightly salty. The consistency was slightly slimy and smooth. While chewing, there was the occasional crunch of shell bits.

“That puts a little hair on your chest,” Sheppard joked.

Everets Properties, owned by the Rose family, has hosted oyster roasts and other community events for many years. Lynn Rose’s grandfather bought the 160-acre property in 1940, and it has been owned by the family ever since.

“My grandfather was a big supporter of the community, and we have carried through to be civic-oriented,” Lynn said.

“This is our contribution to the city,” said Charles Rose, Lynn’s husband. “We’re proud to be able to have a place to share.”

All proceeds from the oyster roast will be given to various charities, the Nansemond River High FBLA chapter, the North Suffolk Rotary Club Foundation and a host of other organizations and initiatives.

In previous years, the event has raised between $6,000 and $7,000.

Sheppard was pleased with the event’s turnout.

“We placed the order early for the weather, and it came through,” he said. “It’s a sell-out.”